Tag: south dakota

  • South Dakota: Crystal Caves and Bear Country lead the way to Wyoming

    Today is all about driving toward Rock City to connect back up with Interstate-90 toward Wyoming. However, the biggest advantage of independent travel is that you get to set your own pace and route. That means we will leave enough time to stop at smaller attractions along the way. We have seen the billboards for Sitting Bull’s Crystal Cavern and Bear Country USA. Who could leave without checking those out, right?

    First, we stopped at the nearby Christmas Tree/Quilt store. Two of my favorite kinds of stores to dud through, in one!  Rob noticed on our first stop that the shop was taking up a collection to help defray the cost of batting. It seems a group of local women are making quilts to donate to Hurricane Katrina victims.  We made it a point to stop off again to put money into the kitty. 

    The woman at the nearby register was shocked that we tourists had seemly only stopped for this purpose. We explained our situation a bit and that led to me meandering through the fabrics.  No willpower at all. I picked out a few fat-squares for Rob’s mother who is also a quilter. We’ll send them as a gift along with a box of supplies to be kept for safe keeping before getting on the freighter in Long Beach.

    Sitting Bull’s Crystal Cavern

    One of the secrets to happy traveling is that your companion/s enjoy the same types of things you do. For us, the list includes aquariums, planetariums, gardens, small themed museums, and caves. So the signs advertising Sitting Bull’s Crystal Cavern had us turning off the main road a mere nine miles from Rapid City.

    We followed the entrance drive, obediently honking the horn as the signs instruct before edging around some of the sharpest switchbacks we’ve ever seen. Eventually we turned into a parking lot. It must be a couple of hundred feet drop from the main highway. 

    As we walked toward the building, some kids got up from a picnic table. One boy chatted us up as we neared. It turned out he is the ticket salesman.  He warned us the entrance is steep and involves, if memory serves, 165 steps and the temperature will be cold. We already have our jackets out. We are no novices to caves. We know how cold they can be and since the day is already hot, it will feel even colder. 

    The entrance drive and the ladder explain why this particular attraction is interesting but not on the most seen lists. As to the steps, we decide going down a ladder will be easier than going down the incline into the pyramids in Egypt where we were bent over at the waist in a near 90 degree angle. 

    We are game for it and follow the path to the entrance where, we are told, a party is getting ready to descend.  The party turns out to be one woman and her (maybe) 10-year-old daughter.  The guide appears.  No burly mining type, but a teenage girl who grabs a flashlight, discusses cave etiquette and starts off down the stairs. 

    The World’s Largest Dog Tooth Crystal Awaits

    This particular limestone cave boasts the world’s largest dog tooth crystal.  These types of crystals appear chocolate brown in color. Triangular in shape, they sort of have a folded fabric look, too. Hundreds of them cover a concave surface that is alongside our pathway. It feels as if we are inside a giant geode.  Cool, indeed.

    A dog tooth is not the kind of formation the masses gasp over. It is far smaller than giant stalactites and stalagmites. One, among the array, however, is impressive in its own right. The largest in the world clearly stands out among its smaller kinfolk. This is a lot like looking closely at an open-mouthed shark with rows and rows of teeth. 

    Dog tooth crystal beds look like a mouth full of shark teeth!

    If you are the kind of person who seeks out the easily accessed touring caves (like Mammoth or even our local, upstate New York’s Howe Caverns), this place will seem crude in comparison. 

    Overall, we had a good time, learned something and enjoyed the company.  The little girl was very inquisitive and bright. She found lots of things to look at and ask about. It was nice to see her curiosity.

    Sad to say that after 82 years, the family who own this land have spread far and wide. Today’s descendants don’t have the interest in maintaining the cavern so in September 2015 the cave was closed down. This place was thought to be the winter home for Chief Sitting Bull long before the property opened to the public in 1934. Now, as the former manager said, “…it can become a cave again.”

    More than just bears at Bear Country USA

    You drive your own vehicle through Bear Country USA although no convertibles or motorcycles are allowed. That is a good thing since the animals roam free. During normal times they provide drivers and vehicles for those who arrive on motorcycle but that service has been temporarily halted due to the Coronavirus.

    The looping road is a well-marked, one-way drive. Various wild animals loll around, munching delivered meals and looking rather bored in the mid-afternoon heat. The animals all look up as if to say, “Howdy.” I think they have become so used to cars, they pose as we stop, roll down a window, snap a photo and then move on – being very careful to roll that window back up, mind you. 

    These puppies may seem bored, but that doesn’t mean their fangs and claws wouldn’t do a lot of damage. Arctic wolves and bears each have their own, unique scratch and bite instincts. I have to temper my desire to coo, “Cutie pie.”

    After the drive, we stopped to walk through the gift shop and then out to a pool area where the year’s crop of baby bears frolicked in a giant pool aka/pond. They are so cute you want to wrap your arms around them until you get a look at the claws.

    Driving across the United States

    PART 7: Rapid City is only 30 miles from Hill City; we checked out some local spots on the way to Wyoming


    photo-Quilt-Corral-shop
    Mistletoe Ranch and Quilt Shop (bought out by winery in 2012; now used for tastings and events.


    Sitting Bull’s Crystal Cavern
    sign-at-top-of-ladder-into-cave-no-refunds-beyond-this-point
    Entrance via ladder
    photo-cave-crystals
    Crystal bed
    photo-dog-tooth-crystals
    Section of dog tooth crystals
    photo-circular-formation-center-gold
    Dog Tooth Root Canal???
    photo-worlds-largest-dog-tooth-crystal
    World’s Largest Dog Tooth Crystal is milk chocolate.

    Bear Country USA Billboard doesn’t show a bear?



    This post is one in a series that document our 400-day trip round the world (2005-2006). Each segment will be linked in at RTW.


  • South Dakota: Crazy Horse is spectacular in every way


    Driving across the United States

    PART 6: Black Hills of South Dakota, Crazy Horse, Mount Rushmore, the Needles Highway and a fantastic dinner


    photo-black-hills-site-for-crazy-horse
    Korczak Ziolkowski, a Polish immigrant, had the vision to look at this mountain and see the greatness of Crazy Horse.

    I love traveling with Rob … he has no problem going off track when something comes up that seems like a better option along the way. We are flexible about our route, about our accommodations, about what we will see and do.

    AMusing Marilyn

    Mount Rushmore is a granite group portrait

    photo-mount-rushmore-observation-deck
    Observation Deck
    photo-mount-rushmore
    Each face is about 60 feet high
    photo-george-washington-silhouette
    This view of George Washington from the road was a surprise!

    Crazy Horse has become a destination

    photo-crazy-horse-tourists
    Wow … today the summit is a tourist destination. Sorry to see this, actually. I hope they don’t destroy the fragile hole or the spirit of Crazy Horse.

    Custer State Park has scenic highways and walking trails

    The Needles Highway is only 14 miles long but takes an hour or more to drive

    photo-needles-highway
    Needles Highway is narrow.
    photo-silhouette-of-climber-in-eye-of-the-needle-sd
    Eye of the Needle.
    photo-car-with-headlights-on
    Headlights are a needed courtesy.
    photo-another-tunnel
    Everyone needs to be a polite driver. Please!!

    Little Devil’s Tower Trail

    photo-mountain-trail-custer-state-park-sd
    Little Devil’s Tower Trail; the easy part.
    We called this “The Squeeze.”
    photo-little-devils-trail
    View beyond The Squeeze
    Trail Needles?
    photo-deer-grazing
    We see you.

    Thank you for the full moon.

    photo-rental
    Our Black Hills Home
    sign-mountain-lion-warning
    Mountain lions??
    photo-crazy-horse-prototype
    Foreground is the goal; the actual carving in the mountain is already generations in the making. (Photo from 2005)

    Some sights in a journey are so exceptional that you don’t need a camera to make a record, a memory. In this segment of our drive across the United States, Crazy Horse stole my heart. It is an engineering marvel and a testament to one man’s vision. It is a monument that exudes the spirit it represents even in the construction phase.


    Rob made reservations for the Walker Homestead in Hill City for three nights; elevation 4,992 feet.  This is familiar terrain despite never having been here before. The mountains are made of solid stone, covered in evergreens and dotted by scenic lakes and streams like our beloved Adirondack Mountains of New York.  The homestead even came with three deer who wandered down through our back yard in the twilight hours.

    In one long day, we saw Mount Rushmore and Crazy Horse before driving the Needles Highway and stopping for a long walk. By the time we returned to Hill City it was 8:00 p.m. so we stopped at the Alpine Inn for dinner. It seemed like half the people in the Black Hills were there. But it was worth the 30-minute wait for a table.

    Mount Rushmore National Memorial

    Along life’s path there are some places you “need” to see because they are simply so well known that you figure you really should stop and check it out for yourself. Who goes to Paris and doesn’t make an effort to see the Eiffel Tower, right? The problem for me — and this is very personal — is that after seeing the photos as illustrations for hundreds of magazine articles, posters, postcards and on TV documentaries, the actual sighting can seem diminished. (Not always; Eiffel is worth it!)

    It’s rather like getting excited at the opportunity to view the Mona Lisa in person, only to find that the original is just a dark little painting you wouldn’t want hanging on a wall in your home.  Sorry to say, but that was actually my first thought way back on that first trip to Europe.

    I realize that a lot of people go all mystical over these icons, but I’m a cynic at heart. I believe those feelings sometimes have more to do with strategic marketing than any inherent beauty in the item or place itself. The response is a self fulfilled prophecy because who wants to say, “Yuck” to a $500 bottle of wine after it has been sold to you as a connoisseur’s rare delight? Anyway, I found Rushmore more annoying than spectacular.

    Don’t get me wrong. The drive through the Black Hills is great. When we turned off the road, however, it was to enter a multi-level parking space reminiscent of the Mall of America on sale day. The Mount Rushmore National Memorial has a museum (facts and gift store) and then a wide deck with flags on either side leads to a viewing area. The National Park Service does a great job of making the view available while preserving the Black Hills.

    In the end, I stood, looked up — and saw the same photo I had seen a million times already. Four former American presidents carved from the granite rock of a mountain. The big difference is that now I can smell the pines, the high mountain air. I close my eyes and understand why this place is sacred ground to many Native Americans. Too bad this memorial couldn’t have been carved in the Appalachians.

    I took my obligatory photo alongside a couple of hundred other people. They were from tour groups bused in from retirement homes and veterans organizations across the country, mixed in with a few dozen biker groups, and many American and international families — Mom, Dad, Bro and Sissy — on a late-summer educational vacation.

    Crazy Horse is a work of art in progress

    In comparison, Crazy Horse is a horse of a different color. And no, after much reflection, I’m not sorry for that turn of phrase!

    I fell in love with Crazy Horse. Maybe because the horse and man are as one? Or because the power and the majesty of the image is striking? Or maybe it is because of a distant memory of seeing this “crazy man” with long hair and a beard in a 1950s-era documentary, when Korczak Ziolkowski was nearly single handedly hacking at a hillside? He was a man with a vision to carve a colossal statue to this amalgam of a Native American hero. 

    The mountain is still a work-in-progress. Today, the work is being carried forward by the children and grandchildren he had neither sired nor envisioned when he first began his work in 1948.  A far more challenging endeavor than the Great Pyramids in size and complexity. It was awesome to witness it being made. The introductory film, the (now) Indian Museum of North America and the Native American Educational and Cultural Center made for a nice afternoon.

    The museums were a work in progress when we visited 15 years ago and have been greatly expanded. There is so much to see and do here. I could easily spend an entire day and would love to return to see the newer Mountain Carving Gallery.

    The Black Hills are a sacred place and somehow this facility – the exhibits, the very buildings themselves, the story they tell – filled me with a sense of majesty.  It is awesome to think of this lone Polish orphan from Boston taking on the task of exemplify the spirit of an entire culture; to carve a mountain.  This place is about Spirit and I found it wonderfully uplifting.

    The Needles Highway is a fun drive for those who love drives

    Leaving the Black Hills National Park area, we moved on to Custer State Park, home to at least three scenic highways. We chose to do the 14-mile road known as the Needles Highway.  First we stopped to take a walk up, up, up one trail and then down, down, down…to find a half dozen deer on either side of the path in a glen.  It was a great diversion and good exercise.

    Rob and I like to enjoy the journey as much as the destinations. Life for us is not racing to the next “thing” but to take in the sights and sounds and smells along the way because they are the next thing. The drive on the Needles Highway is well worth the time. Leave SUVs and trucks at home, drive 20-25 mph, and enjoy a couple of hours taking in Mother Nature at her finest.

    A rock climber’s delight

    There are three low, narrow tunnels – all short enough to see through so cars take turns, if needed. And there are plenty of spots to pull over and take photos.

    The needles themselves are large rock formations that jut up from the forest like — well, like needles.  We stopped to take photos and watch for a while as an Englishman did a rope climb up though the Eye of the Needle – a fairly easy climb as these things go apparently, and often the destination for those who count rock climbing coup the way mountaineers count summits.

    Memories for our eyes only

    After going through the third tunnel, we chose to go back to Hill City via a road that would become unpaved.  What a trip that turned out to be!  The paved bits had switchback after switchback, and it wound up and up and then down and down, then back up and back down and then repeated itself again and again, like a roller coaster ride. 

    Unfortunately for us, we were still driving our wreck of an old car and not the delicious sporty roadster that will be awaiting us in Europe next year, in the Spring.

    At one point, it must have been around 6:00 p.m., give or take 30 minutes, we could see the full moon just as bright as a headlight, sitting low in the deep blue sky, framed by the tops of 50-foot Ponderosa pines overlooking the Black Hills.  The same trees we had driven by at their bottoms, some untold number of twisty turns ago.  Each turn brings forth another view-picture, another memory for tomorrow.  If this road had a name, we never saw it.

    Just as some things are meant to be seen on the BIG screen, many of the images we see in the Black Hills are for our eyes only.  No camera could capture the fluidity of the light and shadow changes, the depth of the views.  No words can truly describe the feeling one gets when, while walking through a mountain glen a family of deer suddenly stand at attention, waiting to see if we are friend or foe, and then honor us by accepting our presence and begin to nibble on the grasses again.”

    From our Journal, September 2005

    Alpine Restaurant in Hill City was worth the wait

    After one very long day in the Black Hills, the Alpine Inn in Hill City seemed like a wise choice when the alternative was me cooking a meal. We didn’t notice the sign that shows the night’s menu, but were happy to sit on the porch and wait for a table – marveling that there were so many people waiting although it was past 8:00 p.m. on this Friday night in a town with a total population of 860.

    As we sat down, our waitress arrived promptly with pen and order book in hand to ask if we know the menu.  No, we respond.  Oh, well it is 9-ounce filet wrapped in bacon for $9.95 or a 6-ounce filet similarly wrapped, for $7.95, salad and baked potato included (2005 pricing; add $4 to those for 2020 prices).  Certainly made it an easy choice and, fortunate for us, we weren’t hankering for a pork chop.  We did get a drink choice and, as the waitress passes through to the next room, Rob wondered aloud what need she had for an order book.

    After gorging ourselves on a very tender and tasty dinner, the waitress reappeared with a dessert menu – not quite 20 scrumptious things to choose from. It seems we had done this dinner backwards! Additionally, that order book suddenly made way more sense.

    Boot Hill Cemetery — the final resting place for Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane

    What trip to the Black Hills is complete without Deadwood? This is the dusty town featured in untold numbers of American Westerns. Just seeing the name on a sign shouts Boot Hill, and poker games gone astray in saloons with six-shooters smoking hot. Cowboys jingling spurs and saloon girls being naughty.

    Alas, some expectations are too hopeful to be matched. We lost the battle to maintain the images of the Wild West from our youth and ceded to modern day vehicular traffic and gaudy souvenir shops.  The main parts of Deadwood were just too touristy for us. It didn’t fit the terrain but seemed popular with city folk who don’t know better.

    And then we wandered off the main drag and found a museum – a gem, and the only redeeming quality in town for us.  Although small, the museum packs in a lot of information in a pleasant way and we enjoyed learning about the town and the lives of some of its more famous residents.

    A quick look online today, to see if I could find a name for the museum — and to discover if it still exists — resulted in a TripAdvisor post titled, “The 10 Best Museums in Deadwood, South Dakota.”  Who knew??? I guess 15 years can bring a LOT of changes to a town. As a warning, the link only shows eight places and not all are actually museums. I believe the one we toured was the Adams Museum.


    This post is one in a series that document our 400-day trip round the world (2005-2006). Each segment will be linked in at RTW.


  • South Dakota:  From the Prairie to the Palace

    South Dakota: From the Prairie to the Palace


    Driving across the United States

    PART 4: South Dakota, prairie to palace


    Driving west on I-90 in the Midwest
    “Look, I think those are trees.”
    Prairie dog
    Prairie Dog Peek-a-Boo

    Roadside Chapel; Henry, (SD)
    Very limited seating.

    Mitchell Corn Palace, South Dakota
    Corn Palace, 2005
    Close-up of corn husks thatched to form part of the building
    Aw, shucks!
    Close up of work on the Corn Palace
    We got to see the construction phase.
    Workers putting up corn to decorate the front of the building
    The Palace gets a new face every year!
    Map of US with South Dakota outlined
    South Dakota is about 380 miles wide, east to west.

    Our introduction to South Dakota takes us from the prairie to the palace. Palace, you ask? Okay we did drive through miles of prairie land to arrive at the Mitchell Corn Palace. It turns out that South Dakota is a very diverse place. It was also our first view of the Great Plains region of the United States from the ground. Those of us who don’t live here think of the Midwest as flat. It turns out it is; and it isn’t.

    If you stand by your car and look south you would swear you could see Texas. But there is an east-west tilt that gradually increases your elevation as you go west. The elevation at the Minnesota border is about 970 ft (295 m) but when we reach the town of Wall, just outside the national park, we will be at 2,825 ft (861 m). That is nearly a 2,000 foot climb.

    The sky looms large all the time here because there are no large clumps of tall buildings, trees or mountains to break it up. I’m told people love “wide open spaces” but it makes me scrunch my neck down into my shoulders like a turtle avoiding a poking finger at its nose.

    Tiny Roadside Chapel in Henry, South Dakota

    Henry, South Dakota, we learn, has a population of 266; plus or minus 1 or 2. There literally is not much to see because the main attraction, the Roadside Chapel, is literally so small. Like many of these types of buildings that dot the world, it was built to provide a bit of respite to travelers.

    It is very well kept up; immaculately clean inside and a welcome stop for us. Maybe because we have an affinity for little white chapels? After all, we were married in the Little White Chapel in Las Vegas.

    The Corn Palace in Mitchell, South Dakota

    Proving that we are not early morning people, we checked out of the Comfort Inn at 11:00 a.m. Proving that we are not big spenders, the Corn Palace was free and the Doll Museum was only $5 per person. Lunch, of course, was corn-on-the cob with one BLT for me and a Corn Dog for Rob; the bill was $12.75, including sodas.

    I am so glad the Mitchell Corn Palace exists. It really is a remarkable place and makes such a statement about the kinds of people you find all across the United States. Not the celebrities of headlines, but real people like those who work the land growing corn and wheat that supply food to humans and herds. When long, growing season days turn to cold winter months, what better way to spend your time than to be creative.

    It doesn’t take a stretch of the imagination to see how someone came up with the idea to decorate the outside of a building using corn when it grows by the mile in these parts.  What is “a-maizing” (get it?? :>) is how delicate some of the pictures appear.  That, and the fact that the façade must be replaced every year. Corn, after all, is biodegradable.

    The Science of Corn Painting

    The residents who do this have it down to a science.  The artist draws pictures for whatever theme is chosen for the next year and then uses a projector to help enlarge the image onto black roofing paper. They use a coded system to mark which areas are to be filled in with what kind (or color) of corn.  This is a true corn-by-code “painting” system developed for the volunteers to follow when placing corn stalks and ears. 

    The Corn Palace itself contains a small history with photos of previous versions, an explanation of how the façade is created, and a gymnasium with a basketball court that can be used for community activities.  After looking around, we sat in the bleachers and listened to a tour guide speak to a group of retirees who had arrived by bus that morning.  Half a million people a year visit the Corn Palace and believe me, they are not flying in on jumbo jets.

    Later, when coming out of a shop, Rob stopped short when he saw the name tag on one of those visitors – showing he was from Rochester, New York!   It turned out he was actually from Greece, a suburb that we are familiar with, as Rob’s mother lived there once.  Another case of “it’s a small world after all.”

    The Enchanted World Doll Museum

    The Enchanted World Doll Museum was enchanting! What a treasure. There were nearly 5,000 dolls of every make, model and description. And they came from nearly everywhere in the world.  Some are very old, some are just exquisite, some crudely made – in its entirety, it was well worth the time and minimal cost. 

    I use the past tense because, I am sorry to say, we just learned that the museum closed in 2008. The collection was most likely sold at auction and the building now is empty. What a terrible loss for everyone involved and to the many visitors to South Dakota.

    A piece of my heart is broken today.


    This post is one in a series that document our 400-day trip round the world (2005-2006). Each segment will be linked in at RTW.